Biscottificio Innocenti: Rome

One of my favorite places in Rome is this long-standing Trastevere cookie bakery. It smells like toasty butter, anise, cinnamon and almond, with notes of apricot jam, and the kind-faced baker reminded me very much of my Sicilian great-grandmother. I loved that she had a wall of photos dedicated to beloved pets, and the cookies were unfussy and exceptionally good.